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Showing posts with label coolant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label coolant. Show all posts

Monday, April 1, 2013

CBZB Cooling System

This is my try to understand how cooling on CBZB engine is working.
I saw a lot of sources and most of them has partial information so here I will summarize all I know.

Important! That is not official documentation, only my findings. Use it on your own risk please :-)

General notes about working on cooling system

Hot steam may escape when the coolant expansion reservoir is opened. Wear safety goggles and safety clothing, in order to avoid eye injuries and scalding. Cover the cap with a cloth and open carefully.
 - When the engine is warm the cooling system is under pressure. If necessary reduce pressure before repairs.
- The hose connections are secured with spring-type clips. In case of repair only assign the spring strap clamps via the → Electronic catalogue of original parts.
- Use pliers for spring strap clamps to fit the spring strap clips.
- Always replace seals and gasket rings.
- When installing fit the coolant hoses free of stress, without them touching any other components (pay attention to the marking on the coolant connection and hose).
- The arrows which are on the coolant pipes and the coolant hose ends must stand opposite to each other.

General info

1.2L TSI engine has two independent cooling systems which are connected and disconnected by non-return valves and a flow restrictor:
1. the charge air cooling system.
2. the engine cooling system which, in turn, is subdivided into 2 circuits.
Temperature difference between two systems can rich up to 100 °C.

Charge air cooling system



I think this pump very important as keeping cool charger that can go up to 900 °C, so let's go deep here.
Please welcome - the coolant circulation pump V50

In real life on my car it looks like this

This is current flow diagram (mostly the same for all engine production dates).
CBZB engine from May 2010 upto Nov 2010
Brown wire goes to "281 - Earth point 1, engine prewiring harness".
White with red tracer to "J496 Additional coolant pump relay". This relay is the only one on the battery.

1: 3B0 951 253 - Contact close relay (~$18)

Operational cases (not confirmed, from 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI docs)
- briefly, after each engine start
- constantly, after engine load request above 100 Nm
- constantly,  if charged air temperature (G42 sensor) above 50°C
- constantly,  if before (G299 sensor) and after (G42 sensor) charged air temperature difference above 8°C
- briefly, on running engine every 2 minutes for 10 seconds to keep turbocharger from overheating
- briefly, after engine stop for 0-8 minutes to cool turbocharger and reduce possible vapor locks cause of temp difference
- can be activated by signals from coolant temp sensor G62 or oil temp and level sensor G266 (only models with extended servicing intervals).

There is no PCM self-diagnostic routine for the pump. If V50 or relay J496 fails overheating can happen. This cooling system failure found be checking compressed air temperature before and after cooler (G299 and G42 sensors).

Engine cooling system

The separate coolant flows inside the cylinder head and inside the engine block allow different temperatures to be achieved in both of these components by using a thermostatic housing with dual thermostats.

The cylinder head thermostat begins to open when the coolant temperature reaches approx. 80°C. It achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C.

On the other hand, the thermostat for the cylinder block begins to open at 87°C. In this case, too, the thermostat achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C. With this configuration, the circulation of coolant through the cylinder block is suppressed during the engine warm-up phase by the closed cylinder block thermostat. The cylinder linings can therefore heat up more quickly, and the friction of the piston assembly can be significantly reduced while the cylinder head is cooled more intensively in order to provide better knock resistance.
There is temp sensor near thermostat 2 (cylinder head).

1: 03F 121 111 A - Coolant thermostat housing with thermostat (~$216)
4: 03F 121 119 - Gasket (~$4)
5: N 910 717 01 - Hexagon socket flat head bolt (Remark: M6X25) (~$1)

There are 2 temp sensors:
1. G62 - near thermostat 2 (cylinder head)
2. F18 - thermal switch in radiator. Octavia II has G83 temp sensor, not 2 stage switch like here.


Engine cold



After cold-starting the engine, the active coolant pump is activated, thus stopping the coolant flow.

If no heating is requested, the engine heats up very quickly. If heating is requested, coolant circulation is stopped for approx. two minutes. Both thermostats are closed.

The coolant flows through the coolant pump, the cylinder block and the heater heat exchanger, and then back to the coolant pump. Parallel to this, the coolant flows through the oil cooler.

Engine warm, a cylinder head thermostat opens



If the coolant has reached a temperature of 80 °C, the cylinder head thermostat opens. The main radiator is now integrated in the coolant flow.

Engine warm, both thermostats open


When the coolant in the cylinder block reaches a temperature of 87 °C, the thermostat for this circuit opens with the result that the cylinder is now incorporated into the coolant circulation system.

Thermal management

The task of the thermal management system is to enable the engine to attain its operating temperature quickly since this improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions.
Thermal management is implemented by stopping the circulation of coolant during the warm-up phase:
- up to a coolant temperature of 90 °C at "salon heater off"
- up to 2 minutes at "salon heater on"
This is implemented technically by using an active coolant pump.
On top - Coolant circuit solenoid valve N492 - controls vacuum
1: 03F 121 004 E - Water pump with adhesive gasket (since 22.11.2011, was 03F 121 004 B) (~$208)
2: 03F 121 031 A - V-belt pulley (~$20)
41: 03F 121 713 - Control line (~$119)
42: 037 906 283 C - Solenoid valve
43: 046 905 291 B - Check valve (~$9)

Functions:
- coolant flow interrupted - coolant temperature of less than 30 °C, activated by vacuum.
- coolant is pumped - vacuum supply is shut off.

Special restarting characteristics:
- switches on and off for the duration of one second
- this cycle is repeated several times in succession
- the interval between cycles is approx. 7 seconds

Thus, the warm coolant from the engine mixes slowly with the cold coolant. When heating is requested, the pump is switched on immediately.

Vacuum activation.
The coolant pump is activated by the coolant circuit solenoid valve N492. It is operated by the engine control unit (this is computed by a map). The pump is activated by means of a PWM signal*.
However, the orifice plate is not actuated variably. It is only switched on or off.
If the valve is deenergised or fails, the coolant flow cannot be controlled since the orifice plate is kept retracted by the spring pressure (maximum coolant flow).
- Failure in off-state: the engine reaches its operating temperature more slowly.
- Failure in on-state: the coolant temperature increases to an unacceptably high level since the coolant pump is unable to feed in fresh coolant. The exhaust warning lamp K83 comes on.

Radiator fan

And this not less important device is not described in SSP docs.
16 - Radiator fan V7
24 - Thermo-switch for radiator fan F18

1: 6R0 959 455 C - Electric fan (Remark: 260/90W 390MM Siemens) (since 10.01.2011, prev was 6Q0 959 455 AD) (~$238)
4: 1J0 906 443 - Flat contact housing for single wiring (Remark: 3 pin, 000 979 228 E, 000 979 307 E)
10: 1J0 959 481 A - Dual thermal switch (Remark: 84-95C/91-102C 3 pin) (~$27)

Switching temperatures
Stage 1 - 84...95 °C
Stage 2 - 91...102 °C

UPDATE 2020-08-15
Below is thermal switch (position 10) compatible parts (price ordered high to low as of today).
Be aware that most of them has different work temperature ranges. Original is 84-95/91-102C, Hella has 87-97/97-102C. In my opinion, lower temp switch is better as it should keep slightly cooler engine but its not super critical.
Hella 6ZT 007 800-111
Hella - 6ZT 007 800-111 ~$28
Delphi - TS10292 ~$23
VAG - 1J0 959 481 A ~$22 (original)
Febi - 36563 ~$20
SWAG - 30 93 6563 ~$20
Vemo - V15-99-2006 ~$14
Metzger - 0915041 ~$14
Borsehung - B13129 ~$12
Facet - 7.5690 ~$12
Eps - 1.850.690 ~$12
Meyle - 100 959 0016 ~$10
Autlog - AS2014 ~$10
Vernet - TS2783 ~$10
Sat - ST-1J0 959 481 A
Fae - 38185
Jp Group - 1194000800
Topran - 109 772
Meat&Doria - 82701
Patron - PE20062
Era - 330230
Maxgear - 50-0176
Hans Pries - 109 772 755
Vika - 99590082401
Ossca - 02905
Elfull - ELS2030
Howyaa - 84081
END OF UPDATE

With out climatronic and climatic, fan get command from switch, proof

I have Climatronic, so there is radiator control unit J293 involved

And flow is different

Prev picture missing that 2,3 and 5 are positive leads, goes to fuse holder

The question is - how fan logic is working?
Radiator fan control unit (J293) connected to Climatronic control unit (J255) by 2 wires. The last connected to onboard supply control unit (J519) by CAN bus.

From Skoda SSP 25 - Climatronic I found 2 cases:
1. Air conditioning is off.
- first fan speed (90W) engaged at 84...95 °C (see stages of F18 above)
- second speed (260W) at 91...102 °C.
2. Air conditioning is on, pressure sensor G65 (old name F129) come in - pressure in refrigerant lines.
- pressure above 16 bar - second fan speed
- pressure above 2 bar and air condition was just turned on - first speed

Climatronic shuts off compressor completely when coolant temp come to 119°C and re-enable at 112°C again.

Changing coolant

For CBZB it's 7.7 ltr of G12++ or G13 with water mixture.
Also interesting that this engine has biggest capacity over others. Take for example CAVE that is way too super hot but has less coolant (and less 0.3l oil too!) - crazy, but good for us, CBZBers :-)
Draining and filling up coolant (PDF)

Coolant mixture

Many people suggest to use distilled water instead and this is true. Remember, DO NOT mix normal tap water with coolant. Tap water varies in pH, mineral, and chemical content and can adversely affect your new coolant and cooling system. City water may be treated with chlorine which is corrosive.
G12 consists of Ethylene Glycol and some additives. From this table you should see the following. Water is the main thermal transfer fluid in coolant system, when you mix water with Ethylene Glycol say for 50/50, conductivity drops almost a twice that mean mixture transfer less heat. So you need to find proper mixture. It's tricky because boiling point is also important. Refer for manufacturer instructions.
I would suggest in Israel (no freeze points) for CBZB use 40-20% of G12.


Sources
My old engine post with SSP materials - most images and text
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Power train - CBZB CBZA - 1.2 TSI (Edition 09.2012)
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Circuit diagram - Basic equipment, From March 2010 (Edition 03.2012)
ETKA (Skoda 2012-03)
ELSA Skoda (up to date)
Ethylene Glycol Heat-Transfer Fluid

Prices actual to post date and shown for original parts, there are cheaper replacements with same quality without VW logo on market too.

P.S. Not a April 1st joke :-)

41 700 km | 2Y 4M

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

First oil change

It happened. Picture and video missing (soon)...

So I came at 9 to Skoda Hagoren garage at Netanya. Alexander took the car, I gave him Valvoline oil and went to waiting room.

In 25 minutes all was done. Old oil was black as they told (sure, why not).
Work price is 139 NIS, original oil filter - 139 NIS.

Impressions from first ever service in Skoda.
Garage are cool. They have open WiFi spot with Internet and I was able to connect to workplace via VPN. Nice friendly people having fun.

In guarantee booklet they did not singed because that is for planned (15K km or year) services. Also there is no word about what type of oil was filled, only "synthetic customer's oil" - not cool, cause with this you can't proof what you used. But whatever, may dash cam was on and I got a funny videos there :-) Next time I will ask to write oil  spec into the order.

After they drain off all oil they pour in all 4 liters - that is a mistake. As you can find in ELSA and owner manual, you need only 3.6 liter (including oil filter). The result of that was above the maximum level - this can damage catalytic converter. But nobody answered me why they do that. Actually, they wanted from me to bring 4.4 liters - donno why. So when at evening after work I withdraw dipstick, oil was oil was ~0.5cm above the max. I drove home carefully. Next day morning, I sucked out with syringe about 150 ml. Will keep an eye on it next few days to normalize the level.

Another strange thing is that when you screw out oil drain plug for this engine - you should replace it with new one. That is what you can find in maintenance operations in ELSA and I saw that also in some SSP document. They used old plug. When I will find that instructions, I will go to garage to see how that happened.

Also they topped coolant for 1 cm above the maximum line.

Document scan.

Odometer 6 967 km.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

G12 plus plus

I meet today a friend of mine in VW garage in Netanya and bought a bottle of original coolant to be in the just in case - 1.5L for 65 NIS.





What was on labels
Suitable as a filled-for-life filling.
G12plus plus distinguishes itself through the miscibility with the products G12 and G12 plus. Provides protection against frost, overheating, corrosion and scaling. It is recommended to use this product all-year round. To be used as described only.
Harmful if swallowed. If swallowed, seek medical advice immediately and show this container or label. Keep out of the reach of children. Keep away from food, drink and animal feedingstuffs. Do not breathe vapour. Avoid contact with skin. Dispose of this material and its container to hazardous or special waste collection point.
For me was also a new that coolant should be mixed with tap water in 1:1 proportion, I thought that it's ready to use. Actually, that's very smart, check the manual:

The coolant which you use for replenishing the system, must comply with one specific specification. Do not use an alternative additive if the coolant additive G12 PLUS - PLUS is not available in exceptional cases. Just top up the system with water and as soon as possible arrange adjustment to correct the mixing ratio of water and coolant additive again by a specialist garage.

You should always have a bottle of water in the car. It's useful to wash hands in a field or... rescuing your engine from overheating and damage. When level is extremly low and you havent G12, add a water, but remember how much you filled (say, 0. liters). Keep an eye on temperature and get closest garage or service and add same amount of G12 - 0.5 liters to get right proportion back.

Also, small tip. Never, I mean, NEVER buy oil or coolant at petrol stations.