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Showing posts with label under-bonnet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label under-bonnet. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

New 1.2 TSI Engine Exhaust near Firewall WTF

Hello :-)

I was with my friend at Skoda to make a test drive of new Fabia.
When I opened to see new TSI engine with 5 extra horses (110 total) from prev version I saw this
This is VW Polo but make doesn't matter, it's all VW after all
Did anyone noticed that exhaust side moved to the back to the firewall??? WTF?

May be there is some magic engineering involved, but how it could be better from when it was in front of grill and better cooled with air flow and less heating front cabine part?

Again. Exhaust part (turbine + catalytic converter + pipes) with all high temperature (above 300C) moved to less ventilated part. Let's burn more oil! :-) And more to add, it has AC hoses there not heat protected.

I don't get it... It has programmed potential issues to owners and more profit for garages...
Old setup was much better in terms of logical and physical thinking.

Update (2015-10-21)
I have to note that I talked with owner of SEAT Leon Cupra R after this post.
He also has the same layout with exhaust and turbine near firewall. That's not crappy 1.2 TSI :-) that's 2.0L TSI in stock 265 PS and 340 Nm but now with stage 2 - 335 HP and 450 Nm! No issues. He suggested me that it makes sence in terms of getting exhaust closer to tailpipe, no need to run under the engine block.
From http://leon-cupra.blogspot.co.il/2013/11/intake-volkswagen-racing.html

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Engine rattling noises when starting engine

Source: http://volkswagen.msk.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=176433&view=findpost&p=3031289
Last few month I hear a lot about this VW fuckup. I knew this before but recently a lot of TSI owners bring this up.
If you happen to hear same sound like on video when you cold starting your TSI car, keep reading.
More videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRg7pEErjHQ (1.2 TSI)
Don't confuse with fuel pump fail - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgNkolvCR_U

The reason is chain lengthened.
As consequences: chain can jump few teeth and valves can meet pistons.

If owner come to dealer with this strange sound, they replace to new improved chain, tension and chain cover with protection from jumping. Even if guarantee is over they do it for free upto 3 or 5 years, I don't remember.

How to avoid it or to delay this issue? Yes, it will happen if your engine was build upto 2011-11-01, see attached TPI below to check your engine serial number if it has upgraded chain set. Always use hand brake when parking! Do not park your car with gearbox only.

Person, who works in VW dealership, advised about these life time of chain:
1.2 TSI - 30'000 km
1.4 TSI - 80'000 km
1.8 TSI - 120'000 km
2.0 TSI - 120'000 km

I can add only that I drove a little more than 30'000 km on my Fabia and I have no issue with it. New owner came yesterday at 53kkm - no issue yet.

Now, I found some assumption that chain condition can be diagnosed with VCDS.
ECU continuously adapting to chain length checking valve open/closed angles. If they exceeds limits - check engine will light up with error "P150D00 chain elongation".
After replacement you should erase adaptation values. There is a message from VAS tool that confirm this: "If the adaptation values are not erased after the timing chain has been replaced and/or worked on, damage to the engine can result. It is absolutely essential that you follow and observe the instructions and notes in the Repair Manual!".

Another interesting information I found that on new 1.2 TSI engines (code CJZB), they will use... toothed belt! :-) VW commented: "replacing the original timing chain mass given argument is that the belt drive is quieter, noise when driving is more quiet."

And we did some research.
Params to watch: Address 01 - Engine (J623-CBZB)
270 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge2
271 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge3
272 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge4
273 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge5
274 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge6
275 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge7
276 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge8

Case 1 - Skoda Yeti, 1.2 TSI, DSG
1. Before chain change - angels are huge!

2. After chain change

3. 600km after chain change


Case 2 - Skoda Fabia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), Manual gearbox, 53'301 km
This is mine Fabia, the I did yesterday oil change service for him and we took readings. No rattling, normal values.


Case 3 - Skoda Fabia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), Manual gearbox, 46'606 km.
Friend from Haifa. No rattling, normal values.

Case 4 - Skoda Octavia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), DSG-7.
Friend from Beer Sheva. Hi did chain replacement just in case. No rattling, normal values.
1. Before chain change

2. After chain change


Technical product information (TPI) downloads:
TPI 2026513-8 - Engine rattling noises when starting engine (ENG)
TPI 2026513-8 - Engine rattling noises when starting engine (RUS)
Also related TPIs (not all with files): 2029226/1, 2024434/9 (2012-09-10), 2026741/3 (2012-04-17)2026513/5 (2012-10-01)

Threads
http://www.club-yeti.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=1347 (Russian)
http://volkswagen.msk.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=176433 (Russian)
https://www.facebook.com/skoda/posts/394900147269119 (English)

Other links:
VCDS params for Fabia

Monday, September 9, 2013

Skoda Hagoren garage fail

Forgot to tell you guys. Think twice if you go to Hagoren garage in Netanya, official Skoda service station.

If you remember, a while ago I got cruise control kit from Russia that I wanted to install on Fabia. But because of safe on ECU and work needed to be done with wiring, removing air-bag and steering wheel I decided to do that officially at Hagoren in Netanya where I was several times (and each time something fun :-). Where the manager says "who brings his own meat to the steak bar" about bringing oil for service. Such a fail, but now about other thing.

So I made an appointment at 19 Feb 2013 7:30 for fitting cruise control with Alexander Lamberski. I came, give him CC set, he said that's the right items and I went home waiting for his call. He said it will take few hours.
At around 12:00 I got a call from Ituran that ECU was disconnected, they track such cases because that's what thefts do when stilling cars - replace ECUs with donors blocks to bypass immobilizer. And around 13 I called to check how is going, he said car is ready and waiting for me with cruise control installed.
I came happy, paid 700 NIS without checking the car.

Grabbed the keys and turned engine on, put 1st gear towards home... And was curious why speedometer is not working and car reacts very strange on gas - feeling was it getting more fuel and more powerful.
I turned back to Garage. What a fuck? I asked them what's wrong with the car. They took it inside like it what should be happened, no test drive. They knew something was wrong. They connected to VAS and was making feeling that they do something until 16 when they closing garage and asked me to come next day at morning. And said you can safely go home.

I drove home. Car was strange. I guess because speed indication was failed ECU was thinking it's always at idle and washing fuel like waterfall all the way. Car got such a boost, but RPMs was limited to 4000. Another indication that it's idle mode.

At home I connected with VCDS and was shocked. There were errors and bad readiness.
Wednesday,20,February,2013,13:20:40:37412
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.0 (x64)
Data version: 20111111

Readiness Status: 0110 0101
Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Passed
Oxygen Sensor Heating: Failed or Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor(s): Failed or Incomplete
Air Conditioning: Passed
Seconday Air Injection: Passed
Evaporative Emissions: Failed or Incomplete
Catalyst Heating: Passed
Catalytic Converter(s): Failed or Incomplete

Engine was working in open loop O2 sensor. No fuel corrections. I didn't go that day to work because of car issues, I was need to drive to Haifa.

Next day morning 20 Feb 2013 I came at morning for checks. Another day spent for nothing. I remind, I already paid for work done. After their manipulations with VAS, I checked and saw the same picture with errors. I asked to put back electronic module without cruise control. And it worked perfectly again. For my notes that probably you have to call to central Skoda garage or Czech Republic (you fucking official Skoda, you should have communication support channels) to make it work I got reply that they know what they doing.
We decided to wait and try again when I will come back from Russia in March.

14 of March 2013. I gave them car at 8:30 till they called me and said to take it. When I came, they, sorry, Alexander said me in the face that my cruise control set that I got from Russia is broken and that is the issue. We put the old PCM in place and I went home. 3rd working day to trash.

At home I made a decision to go to central Champion Motors Skoda garage. I didn't believe that my set was broker. Appointment was made to 2nd of April 2013. I took the risk to spent more money but get it done.

Forgot to mention, as I got dashcam all was filmed in garage too. Their test drive is 200m from garage gate to intersection and back - you can't even test cruise control in that condition, because you need to spin wheels to  least 30 km/h to activate it.

So I came to Petah Tikva at morning. Explained again the issue. Steering wheel selector was already in place, all wirings too. Only PCM was not working. This time I took my working laptop and guy who met me Valery even gave me personal room that was empty that day, not their lobby and waiting room. I was happy. But it turns out that it will take more and more time. From dashcam later I saw that all work was done probably in 2-3 hours but because of lunch and car movement and some guys checking things it was spread to whole day. At 16 I got my Fabia with everything working... except second keys set. Yes, always bring second keys set if you know that there should be some work for remapping electrical units. Unfortunately, Skoda technicians already gone but lucky me on second floor was Audi garage and they called someone to register my second keys with the car.

I paid for this 477. And I was happy. Valery even went with me for test drive t check that everything is working. We did few kilometers test to insure it does. I would recommend that garage. I also liked how car flow is planed inside.

But... Next day I jump by Hagoren to say hello to Alexander, he was on lunch. A left him note with two paychecks. And few days after their receptionist called me to come get money back - 477 NIS.


But nobody called to explain or sorry for what they did. That's 3 work days I left there. I can't let them to work on my car without me, sorry.

That's a huge fail. I don't know what they can do right, actually. On first service they replaced original VW oil filter to some cheap shit, I was around and saw this and they put new original one. Probably only print invoices...

And last thing for today. When you install something in your car like cruise control set, check your insurance policy for options. In mine from Phenix, I can add additional equipment and insure it for free up to 7.5% of car cost. That means, you should take offer from garage for installation cost, send it to your insurance (agent or company) and if, unfortunately, car will be stolen, you will get your extra 3,179 NIS for cruise control too! Worth it!

Monday, July 15, 2013

Gearbox fluid

Even after car sale, I have material for few more posts :-)

Today my friend asked me about gearbox fluid.
You can refer to my old post about gearbox to find some information.

This manual gearbox is filled for life, as manufacture said. But I would change it anyway (if car was with me) at 90K anyway. Because synchronizer rings material wear and polluting oil, aging.

6A from picture above is a transmission oil. Comes in 1 and 2 liters plastic bottles.
VAG code is G 052 512 A2, cost about $20 for 1 liter. Previously was GCN 052 512 Z2 but was dropped at 2010-06-24.


It should be G50 SAE 75 W 90 synthetic oil.

Check gear oil level, PDF

Monday, April 1, 2013

CBZB Cooling System

This is my try to understand how cooling on CBZB engine is working.
I saw a lot of sources and most of them has partial information so here I will summarize all I know.

Important! That is not official documentation, only my findings. Use it on your own risk please :-)

General notes about working on cooling system

Hot steam may escape when the coolant expansion reservoir is opened. Wear safety goggles and safety clothing, in order to avoid eye injuries and scalding. Cover the cap with a cloth and open carefully.
 - When the engine is warm the cooling system is under pressure. If necessary reduce pressure before repairs.
- The hose connections are secured with spring-type clips. In case of repair only assign the spring strap clamps via the → Electronic catalogue of original parts.
- Use pliers for spring strap clamps to fit the spring strap clips.
- Always replace seals and gasket rings.
- When installing fit the coolant hoses free of stress, without them touching any other components (pay attention to the marking on the coolant connection and hose).
- The arrows which are on the coolant pipes and the coolant hose ends must stand opposite to each other.

General info

1.2L TSI engine has two independent cooling systems which are connected and disconnected by non-return valves and a flow restrictor:
1. the charge air cooling system.
2. the engine cooling system which, in turn, is subdivided into 2 circuits.
Temperature difference between two systems can rich up to 100 °C.

Charge air cooling system



I think this pump very important as keeping cool charger that can go up to 900 °C, so let's go deep here.
Please welcome - the coolant circulation pump V50

In real life on my car it looks like this

This is current flow diagram (mostly the same for all engine production dates).
CBZB engine from May 2010 upto Nov 2010
Brown wire goes to "281 - Earth point 1, engine prewiring harness".
White with red tracer to "J496 Additional coolant pump relay". This relay is the only one on the battery.

1: 3B0 951 253 - Contact close relay (~$18)

Operational cases (not confirmed, from 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI docs)
- briefly, after each engine start
- constantly, after engine load request above 100 Nm
- constantly,  if charged air temperature (G42 sensor) above 50°C
- constantly,  if before (G299 sensor) and after (G42 sensor) charged air temperature difference above 8°C
- briefly, on running engine every 2 minutes for 10 seconds to keep turbocharger from overheating
- briefly, after engine stop for 0-8 minutes to cool turbocharger and reduce possible vapor locks cause of temp difference
- can be activated by signals from coolant temp sensor G62 or oil temp and level sensor G266 (only models with extended servicing intervals).

There is no PCM self-diagnostic routine for the pump. If V50 or relay J496 fails overheating can happen. This cooling system failure found be checking compressed air temperature before and after cooler (G299 and G42 sensors).

Engine cooling system

The separate coolant flows inside the cylinder head and inside the engine block allow different temperatures to be achieved in both of these components by using a thermostatic housing with dual thermostats.

The cylinder head thermostat begins to open when the coolant temperature reaches approx. 80°C. It achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C.

On the other hand, the thermostat for the cylinder block begins to open at 87°C. In this case, too, the thermostat achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C. With this configuration, the circulation of coolant through the cylinder block is suppressed during the engine warm-up phase by the closed cylinder block thermostat. The cylinder linings can therefore heat up more quickly, and the friction of the piston assembly can be significantly reduced while the cylinder head is cooled more intensively in order to provide better knock resistance.
There is temp sensor near thermostat 2 (cylinder head).

1: 03F 121 111 A - Coolant thermostat housing with thermostat (~$216)
4: 03F 121 119 - Gasket (~$4)
5: N 910 717 01 - Hexagon socket flat head bolt (Remark: M6X25) (~$1)

There are 2 temp sensors:
1. G62 - near thermostat 2 (cylinder head)
2. F18 - thermal switch in radiator. Octavia II has G83 temp sensor, not 2 stage switch like here.


Engine cold



After cold-starting the engine, the active coolant pump is activated, thus stopping the coolant flow.

If no heating is requested, the engine heats up very quickly. If heating is requested, coolant circulation is stopped for approx. two minutes. Both thermostats are closed.

The coolant flows through the coolant pump, the cylinder block and the heater heat exchanger, and then back to the coolant pump. Parallel to this, the coolant flows through the oil cooler.

Engine warm, a cylinder head thermostat opens



If the coolant has reached a temperature of 80 °C, the cylinder head thermostat opens. The main radiator is now integrated in the coolant flow.

Engine warm, both thermostats open


When the coolant in the cylinder block reaches a temperature of 87 °C, the thermostat for this circuit opens with the result that the cylinder is now incorporated into the coolant circulation system.

Thermal management

The task of the thermal management system is to enable the engine to attain its operating temperature quickly since this improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions.
Thermal management is implemented by stopping the circulation of coolant during the warm-up phase:
- up to a coolant temperature of 90 °C at "salon heater off"
- up to 2 minutes at "salon heater on"
This is implemented technically by using an active coolant pump.
On top - Coolant circuit solenoid valve N492 - controls vacuum
1: 03F 121 004 E - Water pump with adhesive gasket (since 22.11.2011, was 03F 121 004 B) (~$208)
2: 03F 121 031 A - V-belt pulley (~$20)
41: 03F 121 713 - Control line (~$119)
42: 037 906 283 C - Solenoid valve
43: 046 905 291 B - Check valve (~$9)

Functions:
- coolant flow interrupted - coolant temperature of less than 30 °C, activated by vacuum.
- coolant is pumped - vacuum supply is shut off.

Special restarting characteristics:
- switches on and off for the duration of one second
- this cycle is repeated several times in succession
- the interval between cycles is approx. 7 seconds

Thus, the warm coolant from the engine mixes slowly with the cold coolant. When heating is requested, the pump is switched on immediately.

Vacuum activation.
The coolant pump is activated by the coolant circuit solenoid valve N492. It is operated by the engine control unit (this is computed by a map). The pump is activated by means of a PWM signal*.
However, the orifice plate is not actuated variably. It is only switched on or off.
If the valve is deenergised or fails, the coolant flow cannot be controlled since the orifice plate is kept retracted by the spring pressure (maximum coolant flow).
- Failure in off-state: the engine reaches its operating temperature more slowly.
- Failure in on-state: the coolant temperature increases to an unacceptably high level since the coolant pump is unable to feed in fresh coolant. The exhaust warning lamp K83 comes on.

Radiator fan

And this not less important device is not described in SSP docs.
16 - Radiator fan V7
24 - Thermo-switch for radiator fan F18

1: 6R0 959 455 C - Electric fan (Remark: 260/90W 390MM Siemens) (since 10.01.2011, prev was 6Q0 959 455 AD) (~$238)
4: 1J0 906 443 - Flat contact housing for single wiring (Remark: 3 pin, 000 979 228 E, 000 979 307 E)
10: 1J0 959 481 A - Dual thermal switch (Remark: 84-95C/91-102C 3 pin) (~$27)

Switching temperatures
Stage 1 - 84...95 °C
Stage 2 - 91...102 °C

UPDATE 2020-08-15
Below is thermal switch (position 10) compatible parts (price ordered high to low as of today).
Be aware that most of them has different work temperature ranges. Original is 84-95/91-102C, Hella has 87-97/97-102C. In my opinion, lower temp switch is better as it should keep slightly cooler engine but its not super critical.
Hella 6ZT 007 800-111
Hella - 6ZT 007 800-111 ~$28
Delphi - TS10292 ~$23
VAG - 1J0 959 481 A ~$22 (original)
Febi - 36563 ~$20
SWAG - 30 93 6563 ~$20
Vemo - V15-99-2006 ~$14
Metzger - 0915041 ~$14
Borsehung - B13129 ~$12
Facet - 7.5690 ~$12
Eps - 1.850.690 ~$12
Meyle - 100 959 0016 ~$10
Autlog - AS2014 ~$10
Vernet - TS2783 ~$10
Sat - ST-1J0 959 481 A
Fae - 38185
Jp Group - 1194000800
Topran - 109 772
Meat&Doria - 82701
Patron - PE20062
Era - 330230
Maxgear - 50-0176
Hans Pries - 109 772 755
Vika - 99590082401
Ossca - 02905
Elfull - ELS2030
Howyaa - 84081
END OF UPDATE

With out climatronic and climatic, fan get command from switch, proof

I have Climatronic, so there is radiator control unit J293 involved

And flow is different

Prev picture missing that 2,3 and 5 are positive leads, goes to fuse holder

The question is - how fan logic is working?
Radiator fan control unit (J293) connected to Climatronic control unit (J255) by 2 wires. The last connected to onboard supply control unit (J519) by CAN bus.

From Skoda SSP 25 - Climatronic I found 2 cases:
1. Air conditioning is off.
- first fan speed (90W) engaged at 84...95 °C (see stages of F18 above)
- second speed (260W) at 91...102 °C.
2. Air conditioning is on, pressure sensor G65 (old name F129) come in - pressure in refrigerant lines.
- pressure above 16 bar - second fan speed
- pressure above 2 bar and air condition was just turned on - first speed

Climatronic shuts off compressor completely when coolant temp come to 119°C and re-enable at 112°C again.

Changing coolant

For CBZB it's 7.7 ltr of G12++ or G13 with water mixture.
Also interesting that this engine has biggest capacity over others. Take for example CAVE that is way too super hot but has less coolant (and less 0.3l oil too!) - crazy, but good for us, CBZBers :-)
Draining and filling up coolant (PDF)

Coolant mixture

Many people suggest to use distilled water instead and this is true. Remember, DO NOT mix normal tap water with coolant. Tap water varies in pH, mineral, and chemical content and can adversely affect your new coolant and cooling system. City water may be treated with chlorine which is corrosive.
G12 consists of Ethylene Glycol and some additives. From this table you should see the following. Water is the main thermal transfer fluid in coolant system, when you mix water with Ethylene Glycol say for 50/50, conductivity drops almost a twice that mean mixture transfer less heat. So you need to find proper mixture. It's tricky because boiling point is also important. Refer for manufacturer instructions.
I would suggest in Israel (no freeze points) for CBZB use 40-20% of G12.


Sources
My old engine post with SSP materials - most images and text
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Power train - CBZB CBZA - 1.2 TSI (Edition 09.2012)
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Circuit diagram - Basic equipment, From March 2010 (Edition 03.2012)
ETKA (Skoda 2012-03)
ELSA Skoda (up to date)
Ethylene Glycol Heat-Transfer Fluid

Prices actual to post date and shown for original parts, there are cheaper replacements with same quality without VW logo on market too.

P.S. Not a April 1st joke :-)

41 700 km | 2Y 4M

Monday, February 4, 2013

Cruise control



I will put here fitting instructions for download because I can't find that on Internet, so it could be useful for interested people. I've scanned this in English, Russian and Czech languages.

I got set of 5J1 035 623 A for $330.
Set contains steering wheel switch, BCM unit and wirings.

5J1 035 623 A - Skoda Fabia (5J) Cruise control fitting instructions, PDF, 38 MB

I was installed it in official service because of safe on ECU removing difficulties and need to program units..

Cruise control retrofitting instructions from Ross-Tech site
Cruise Control Retrofitting (6R)

Friday, January 11, 2013

Fitting location of the injection system


This document shows main components and their locations for Skoda Fabia 2 (and Roomster) injection system.

Fitting location of the injection system (ENG, PDF)
This is from ETKA (SK 2012-03).

39 200 km | 2Y 1M

Saturday, December 15, 2012

37.5K service

This time it's not just oil check, but let's start from under the vehicle pictures.

Left front wheel

6R0 423 156 B - hydraulic pump with electric motor



1K0 965 561 L - additional water pump

6Q0 199 851 BD - support
See oil stream?

Drive shaft with constant velocity joints

6Q0 407 272 DL - drive shaft with constant velocity joints


Left rear wheel

Right rear wheel
After oil filter and plug was replaced, we did throttle cleaning. From what I saw I will recommend do that every 2 years or 30K. You will also need to do unit adaptation after cleaning that can be done with VAG-COM cable and VCDS application that you can get for less than 200 NIS (from China). More later about VAG tool.

03F 133 062 - throttle body magneti marelli

03F 133 062 - throttle body top view

Intake manifold view hole
Now, there is not a lot of dust but it there.


And this is after cleaning


What else... Spark plugs!
Looks fine. Light red color on them cause of fuel mixture - 95 and 98 - that's okay. What is not okay is white rust. This is from my engine wash :-) Next time I will hide it.
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 4


All together


And we also changed brake fluid but in Israel style - with help of gravity :-)
Remember to change it every 2 years!

Total work cost about 350 NIS, thanks to Husam again.

Endoscopy video is not ready yet and I don't know if somebody except me needs it, so probably will skip it this time.

Instructions
Change brake fluid, PDF Eng
Removing and installing the throttle valve control unit -J338-, PDF Eng
Clean throttle valve control unit -J338-, PDF Eng

37 700km | 1Y 12M