FSI vs TSI explained

Just got an awesome doc from a friend.
ECS Tunning - FSI vs TSI, PDF

Not 1.2 TSI but still interesting reading.

Engine rattling noises when starting engine

Source: http://volkswagen.msk.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=176433&view=findpost&p=3031289

Last few month I hear a lot about this VW fuckup. I knew this before but recently a lot of TSI owners bring this up.
If you happen to hear same sound like on video when you cold starting your TSI car, keep reading.

More videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRg7pEErjHQ (1.2 TSI)
Don't confuse with fuel pump fail - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgNkolvCR_U

The reason is chain lengthened.
As consequences: chain can jump few teeth and valves can meet pistons.

If owner come to dealer with this strange sound, they replace to new improved chain, tension and chain cover with protection from jumping. Even if guarantee is over they do it for free upto 3 or 5 years, I don't remember.

How to avoid it or to delay this issue? Yes, it will happen if your engine was build upto 2011-11-01, see attached TPI below to check your engine serial number if it has upgraded chain set. Always use hand brake when parking! Do not park your car with gearbox only.

Person, who works in VW dealership, advised about these life time of chain:
1.2 TSI - 30'000 km
1.4 TSI - 80'000 km
1.8 TSI - 120'000 km
2.0 TSI - 120'000 km

I can add only that I drove a little more than 30'000 km on my Fabia and I have no issue with it. New owner came yesterday at 53kkm - no issue yet.

Now, I found some assumption that chain condition can be diagnosed with VCDS.
ECU continuously adapting to chain length checking valve open/closed angles. If they exceeds limits - check engine will light up with error "P150D00 chain elongation".
After replacement you should erase adaptation values. There is a message from VAS tool that confirm this: "If the adaptation values are not erased after the timing chain has been replaced and/or worked on, damage to the engine can result. It is absolutely essential that you follow and observe the instructions and notes in the Repair Manual!".

Another interesting information I found that on new 1.2 TSI engines (code CJZB), they will use... toothed belt! :-) VW commented: "replacing the original timing chain mass given argument is that the belt drive is quieter, noise when driving is more quiet."

And we did some research.
Params to watch: Address 01 - Engine (J623-CBZB)
270 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge2
271 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge3
272 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge4
273 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge5
274 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge6
275 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge7
276 X_Intake_camshaft_signaledge_position_adapted_value_Edge8

Case 1 - Skoda Yeti, 1.2 TSI, DSG
1. Before chain change - angels are huge!

2. After chain change

3. 600km after chain change

Case 2 - Skoda Fabia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), Manual gearbox, 53'301 km
This is mine Fabia, the I did yesterday oil change service for him and we took readings. No rattling, normal values.

Case 3 - Skoda Fabia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), Manual gearbox, 46'606 km.
Friend from Haifa. No rattling, normal values.

Case 4 - Skoda Octavia (Mk2), 1.2 TSI (CBZB), DSG-7.
Friend from Beer Sheva. Hi did chain replacement just in case. No rattling, normal values.
1. Before chain change

2. After chain change

Technical product information (TPI) downloads:
TPI 2026513-8 - Engine rattling noises when starting engine (ENG)
TPI 2026513-8 - Engine rattling noises when starting engine (RUS)
Also related TPIs (not all with files): 2029226/1, 2024434/9 (2012-09-10), 2026741/3 (2012-04-17), 2026513/5 (2012-10-01)

Threads
http://www.club-yeti.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=1347 (Russian)
http://volkswagen.msk.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=176433 (Russian)
https://www.facebook.com/skoda/posts/394900147269119 (English)

Other links:
VCDS params for Fabia

erWin - Electronic Repair and Workshop Information

Do you know that you can get legally all up-to-date repair workshop information for all VAG cars for just €5?
Keep reading :-)

Meet the erwin - Electronic Repair and Workshop Information service. This is not only for professionals but erWin is also available to private individuals who want to repair their Skoda vehicle themselves! Thank you VAG!

erWin contains

1. all repair guidelines for Škoda Auto
2. further repair information available in PDF format (not available in all languages). 
3. additional information such as self-study programmes and training programmes. 
4. vehicle-specific information, such as maintenance tables, vehicle data and field actions is available in many languages. 
5. continuous update of data 
6. the Offboard Diagnostic Information System Service - Diagnostic Software 
1. with the advantage of carrying out an offboard diagnosis for all vehicles of the Skoda brand, which have a EU 5 type approval, through a SAEJ2534-compliant interface (diagnosis interface),
2. and the possibility of direct access to the selected repair and maintenance information during a current diagnostic session via the diagnosis software. 

Open Internet Explorer. That's important, other browsers doesn't works as expected.
Goto their home page https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

First of all, choose surface and article language. I recommend you to set it to English or German (if you know it) as it should be most comprehensive info.

Now, go register https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showCustomerRegistration.do
And login after that.

Now to start working, you need to pay for service with Visa or MasterCard. You can choose the duration according to your needs:
One hour including printing rights €5.00 
One day incl. printing rights €25.00
One week incl. printing rights €88.00
30 days incl. printing rights €310.00
365 days incl. printing rights €2,850.00

One hour was enough for me to get all material for Fabia Mk2 and my friend's Octavia Mk2, but you need  fast navigation skills, lot of interaction with keyboard and mouse to save everything on your PC.

Before you pay, take a look around in menus and check their tour in "About erWin".

After payment that you will get instant access to all material, you can also check your car by VIN number.

Actually erWin is a good replacement for ETKA that requires a lot of dancing around computer to make it work. And it always updated. Anyway, 5 euro is a not so much money for that information.

Other VAG brands
VW https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do
Seat https://erwin.seat.com/erwin/showHome.do
Audi https://erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do

Other brands that I'm aware of
Subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com/index.html
Honda (USA and Canada) https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp

Update (2014-06-02)
More makers list (but most of them US-models).
From: https://www.autoenginuity.com/products/reprogrammer.html, http://www.drewtech.com/technician/introduction/capabilitiesj2534.html

Acura, Honda: http://www.serviceexpress.honda.com/
Audi: http://erwin.audiusa.com
BMW: http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/
Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Eagle, Plymouth: http://www.techauthority.com/
Ferrari: http://www.ferraritechinfo.com
Ford, Lincoln, Mercury: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/
GM - Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, GEO, Hummer, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saturn: http://www.gmtechinfo.com/
Hyundai: http://www.hmaservice.com
Infiniti: http://www.infiniti-techinfo.com
Isuzu: http://www.isuzutechinfo.com/
Jaguar: http://topix.jaguar.jlrext.com/topix/i18n/index
Kia: http://www.kiatechinfo.com
Land Rover: http://www.landrovertechinfo.com/
Lexus: http://techinfo.lexus.com
Maserati: http://maseratitechinfo.com
Mazda: http://www.mazdaserviceinfo.com/
Mercedes-Benz: http://www.startekinfo.com/
Mini: http://www.minitechinfo.com/
Mitsubishi: http://www.mitsubishitechinfo.com/
Nissan: http://www.nissan-techinfo.com
Porsche: https://techinfo2.porsche.com/PAGInfosystem/VFModuleManager?Type=GVOStart
Saab: http://www.saabtechinfo.com
Subaru: http://techinfo.subaru.com
Suzuki: http://www.suzukipitstopplus.com
Toyota, Scion: http://techinfo.toyota.com/
Volkswagen: http://erwin.vw.com
Volvo: http://www.volvotechinfo.com/

Have a nice browsing!

Approved oils list

VAG oils approved lists. These are updated from time to time.
VW 502/507 https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50200_50500.pdf
VW 504/507 https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50400_50700.pdf
Saved copies (PDF): 502, 504.

UPDATE (2016-04-24)
I found that above links changed. New ones below:
https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/downloadStaticFile/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50400_50700.pdf
https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/downloadStaticFile/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50200_50500.pdf
END OF UPDATE

Champion motors has it's own list.
This one is old, dated 2011-07.
Champion Motors Israel approved oil list

But on their site http://champ24.co.il/#oil, you can find up-to-date list. I don't know how often they change it. It's also best working in Internet Explorer, so I guess they don't care too much. And sorting is crazy, definitely zero care about users, car owners.

This is list as of today (2013-08-17)

VW 501.01/505.00
Wolf Masterlube GTS B4 SAE 10W-40
Liqui Moly Super Leichtlauf SAE 10W-40
Meguin Megol Motorenoel Syntehc Premiun SaE 10W-40
Champion Superlube SL/CF B4
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 SAE 10W-40 (PAZ)
Agip Sint 2000 SAE 10W-40
Delek Motorsynth SV SAE 10W-40
Castrol GTX A3/B3 SAE 15W-40
Rowe Super Leichtlauf HC-O SAE 10W-40
North Sea Lubricants Wave Power SL SAE 10W-40
Aral Blue Tronic SAE 10W-40
Chevron Havoline Diesel Extra SAE 10W-40

VW 502.00
Fuchs TITAN Supersyn SAE 5W-40
Shell Helix ultra SAE 5W-40
Cepsa Star Synthetic SAE 5W-40
Liqui Moly Leichtlauf HC 7 SAE 5W-40
ESSO ULTRON SAE 5W-40
Wolf Masterlube Synflow SAE 5W-40
Rowe Sy nt RS-i SAE 5W-40
MOBIL 1 SAE 0W-40

VW 505.01/502.00/505.00
Sonol Synt 505.01 SAE 5W-40
Eurol Turbo DI SAE 5W-40
Paz Lubricants & Chemicals Ltd Top Paz SAE 5W-40
Fuchs TITAN GT1 SAE 5W-40
Delek-DELKOL MOTORSYNTH TDI SAE 5W-40
Gulf Formula ULE SAE 5W-40
eni i-Sint MS SAE 5W-40
Wolf Masterlube Synflow PI SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec Professional B4 SAE 5W-40
BG synthetic engine oil SAE 5W-30
Meguin megol Motorenoel New Generation 5W-30
Valvoline DuraBland Diesel SAE 5W-40
Liqui Moly Longtime High Tech 5W-30
Mobil Syst S Special V SAE 5W-30
Cepsa XSTAR TDI SYNT SAE 5W-40
Champion Syntolube PI SAE 5W-40
SWD - PRIMUS DXM SAE 5W-40
Redoil Italia Challoils SAE 5W-40
ARAL High Tronic SAE 5W-40
Motul Specific 505 01 502 00 505 00 SAE 5W-40
Chevron Havoline Ultra SAE 5W-40

VW 506.01
Mobil SHC Formula LD SAE 0W-30
Liqui Moly Synthoil Longtime Plus SAE 0W-30
Castrol SLX Professional Longtec Longlife II SAE 0W-30
eni i-Sint tech SAE OW-30
Elf Evolution CRV 0W-30
Fuchs TITAN Supersyn LONGLIFE PLUS SAE OW-30
ARAL Super Tronic Long life III SAE 0W-30
Chevron Texaco Havoline Synthetic 506.01 SAE 0W-30

VW 507.00/504.00
Swd Rheinol Primus LLX SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III SAE 5W-30
Eurol Syntence SAE 5W-30
Gulf Formula GVX SAE 5W-30
Paz Lubricants & Chemicals Ltd Paz Extreme 507.00 SAE 5W-30
Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow Longlife III SAE 5W-30
Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO C-3
Mobil 1 ESP formula 5W-30
Meguin megol Motorenoel Compatible SAE 5W-30
Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 SAE 5W-30
ARAL Super Tronic Long life III SAE 5W-30
Rowe HIGHTEC ECOSYNT Longlife III SAE 5W-30
Champion Syntolube Longlife III SAE 5W-30
eni i-Sint SAE 5W-30
Shell Helix Ultra AV-L SAE 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower XL-III SAE 5W-30
Motol Specific 504 00 507 00 SAE 5W-30
Wolf Masterlube Synflow Longlife III SAE 5W-30
Delek Delkol-Synt Longlife PCMO SAE 5W-30

Dashboard instrument cluster

Another post on friends request. This time about instrument cluster.

Friend complained that he washed interior of his 1.4 MPI Fabia and accidentally split some liquid inside instrument cluster glass (plastic) that was somehow already with sort of crack near buttons.
He went to official Skoda garage Hagoren and they said they can order new plastic for... 350 NIS (300 + 18% VAT) and replace it (work not included in price).

Suck it, Skoda Israel!

 1: 5J0 920 810 E - instrument cluster multi function indicator (since 2010-11-08), $160
1A: 5J0 919 137 A - glass cover plastic, $19.00
 2: N 906 986 06 - hexagon socket head panel bolt, 4,2x16, $0.08
 4: 8Z0 820 535 - ambient temperature sensor, $14.81
 8: 6Q0 971 918 A - plug vehicle speed sensor, $3.36
Prices from Exist.Ru

$20 dollars is fair price, it's 80 NIS top. Ok, double it, delivery... WTF 350? I haven't official offer for that, but that is what my friend told me after visiting them.

I suggested to order from Czech Republic from Alexander for that price plus couple bucks for delivery.

Now, how to replace. Very simple, follow the instructions, no need to remove steering wheel.
Removing and installing the dash panel, PDF
Removing and installing the dash panel insert, PDF
Replace transparent washer of the dash panel insert, PDF
All work is about 1 hour max.

More docs related to steering column, not required for plastic replacement.
Removing and installing driver airbag unit, PDF - not touch if not sure!
Removing and installing the steering wheel, PDF

Some more photos from my dashboard disassembly.

5J0 858 565 - trim for steering column - upper

6Q0 953 503 EE - steering column multi-switch - top

5J0 920 810 E - instrument cluster - front

5J0 920 810 E - instrument cluster - back

Gearbox fluid

Even after car sale, I have material for few more posts :-)

Today my friend asked me about gearbox fluid.
You can refer to my old post about gearbox to find some information.

This manual gearbox is filled for life, as manufacture said. But I would change it anyway (if car was with me) at 90K anyway. Because synchronizer rings material wear and polluting oil, aging.

6A from picture above is a transmission oil. Comes in 1 and 2 liters plastic bottles.
VAG code is G 052 512 A2, cost about $20 for 1 liter. Previously was GCN 052 512 Z2 but was dropped at 2010-06-24.

It should be G50 SAE 75 W 90 synthetic oil.

Check gear oil level, PDF

Resetting service interval display (SID)

1. Switch off ignition.
2. Press set button -3- and hold and simultaneously switch on ignition.
3. Release the button -3- and briefly press the button -1- once for 20 seconds.

Resetting service interval display (SID), PDF

45,200 km | 2Y 5M

My oil change

My first own oil change. Same oil Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 4 liters from Alon Halafim. This is last time I bought there - 220 NIS! And they sell for 220 while on site it says 200. When I talked to them on phone after finding that fact right after purchase - I got filling like talking to wall. Ok whatever, there are other stores around. You can get 5L for 190 in AutoStore (Holon). Original oil filter with plug I got for 50 NIS from Russia.

Tools
1. Jack stands - 140 NIS

2. IKEA - TROFAST - Storage box, green ~15 NIS

3. IKEA - CHOSIGT - Funnel, set of 2, assorted colors ~5 NIS

4. ACDelco ARM602-4 Torque adapter - 300 NIS (optional)

And here we go!

Procedure as described in old post - Oil replace instructions.
1. Remove filter (put paper towel around before).
2. Unscrew oil cap.
3. Clean both places, cover both holes with something to keep clean from dust.
4. Go below, put oil pan (storage box).
5. Unscrew drain plug.
6. Let it drain out for a while, at least 10-15 min.
7. I had 0.5L of oil in old canister, so I filled it in washing out more dirt oil.
8. Now prepare new filter, tap gaskets with oil and install. Torque moment up to 25 Nm.
9. Screw in new drain plug, torque moment is 30 Nm.
10. Top new oil using funnel periodically check for level with dipstick (top, wait for 1 min, check). 3.6L required by the specs.
11. Clean with soft paper all places and check for leaks.
12. Startup engine and check for leaks.
13. Perform test drive, shut down engine, wait for 3-5 mins and check for leaks again.
14. Done!

I hooked up with VCDS while topping oil monitoring fill level and temperature.

And did test run while monitoring.
Blue - oil level, mm
Green - oil temperature, grad C
Purple - coolant temperature, grad C
Orange - engine RPM
Yellow - vehicle speed, km/h

After engine was shut off, oil level sensor displays ~79mm and on dipstick it's in the middle of min and max. I  run out of new oil can because I waited for about an hour while old oil was draining out - doing other stuff.

Now need to return old oil gently collected in old canister to somewhere. It was fun, saved a money (about 300 NIS for labor) and got new experience. Engine runs smooth, I felt better response on gas pedal after change - true.

Few more shots
Oil spot quick check (photo taken after 10 mins)

Filter housing. Note small spots on the right side. Not a mud, just some sticked oil like sludge but very easy dissolves when touched.

Oil level sensor from Hella. Costs ~$85. Check Hella PDF below if interested.

More info
Hella Oil level sensors, PDF

45,100 km | 2Y 5M

Jack stands

Inspired from Eric The Car Guy videos who all his repairs do without garage lifts, I got myself pair of jack stands for start. For next oil change, for example. These are extremely useful when you haven't your own garage or access to lifts.
Bought at L.K. Ltd for 140 NIS.

Important to know where jacking points are located, see the doc.
Raise vehicle, PDF

Check this video, first few minutes will explain to you how jack stands can be used.

Stay dirty! ;-) Eric is awesome.

41,600 km | 2Y 3M

Compression tester

At next oil change at 45K I going to check compression.
For this work I bought cylinder pressure meter at L.K. Ltd. for 150 NIS.

Compression universal check flow (important ones marked red):
1 - Engine warmed up to working temp, all thermal gaps are optimal
2 - Pull out all spark plugs
3 - Clean air filter and pull down gas pedal (for steel cable throtles)
4 - Disable fuel pump
5 - Disable ignition system
6 - Battery should be fully operationional and fully charged
7 - Starter should be fully functional
8 - Add charger to the battery
9 - Before shutting down engine for tests, press gas pedal few times to clean cylinders and valves
10 - Compression check occurs until there is no increase on tester

Eric's compression test

Information
Skoda Fabia CBZB - Testing the compression, PDF
Right way to check compression (RUS)

41,600 km | 2Y 3M

CBZB Cooling System

This is my try to understand how cooling on CBZB engine is working.
I saw a lot of sources and most of them has partial information so here I will summarize all I know.

Important! That is not official documentation, only my findings. Use it on your own risk please :-)

General notes about working on cooling system

Hot steam may escape when the coolant expansion reservoir is opened. Wear safety goggles and safety clothing, in order to avoid eye injuries and scalding. Cover the cap with a cloth and open carefully.
 - When the engine is warm the cooling system is under pressure. If necessary reduce pressure before repairs.
- The hose connections are secured with spring-type clips. In case of repair only assign the spring strap clamps via the → Electronic catalogue of original parts.
- Use pliers for spring strap clamps to fit the spring strap clips.
- Always replace seals and gasket rings.
- When installing fit the coolant hoses free of stress, without them touching any other components (pay attention to the marking on the coolant connection and hose).
- The arrows which are on the coolant pipes and the coolant hose ends must stand opposite to each other.

General info

1.2L TSI engine has two independent cooling systems which are connected and disconnected by non-return valves and a flow restrictor:
1. the charge air cooling system.
2. the engine cooling system which, in turn, is subdivided into 2 circuits.
Temperature difference between two systems can rich up to 100 °C.

Charge air cooling system

I think this pump very important as keeping cool charger that can go up to 900 °C, so let's go deep here.
Please welcome - the coolant circulation pump V50

In real life on my car it looks like this

This is current flow diagram (mostly the same for all engine production dates).

CBZB engine from May 2010 upto Nov 2010

Brown wire goes to "281 - Earth point 1, engine prewiring harness".
White with red tracer to "J496 Additional coolant pump relay". This relay is the only one on the battery.

1: 3B0 951 253 - Contact close relay (~$18)

Operational cases (not confirmed, from 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI docs)
- briefly, after each engine start
- constantly, after engine load request above 100 Nm
- constantly,  if charged air temperature (G42 sensor) above 50°C
- constantly,  if before (G299 sensor) and after (G42 sensor) charged air temperature difference above 8°C
- briefly, on running engine every 2 minutes for 10 seconds to keep turbocharger from overheating
- briefly, after engine stop for 0-8 minutes to cool turbocharger and reduce possible vapor locks cause of temp difference
- can be activated by signals from coolant temp sensor G62 or oil temp and level sensor G266 (only models with extended servicing intervals).

There is no PCM self-diagnostic routine for the pump. If V50 or relay J496 fails overheating can happen. This cooling system failure found be checking compressed air temperature before and after cooler (G299 and G42 sensors).

Engine cooling system

The separate coolant flows inside the cylinder head and inside the engine block allow different temperatures to be achieved in both of these components by using a thermostatic housing with dual thermostats.

The cylinder head thermostat begins to open when the coolant temperature reaches approx. 80°C. It achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C.

On the other hand, the thermostat for the cylinder block begins to open at 87°C. In this case, too, the thermostat achieves its maximum opening cross-section at a temperature of 135°C. With this configuration, the circulation of coolant through the cylinder block is suppressed during the engine warm-up phase by the closed cylinder block thermostat. The cylinder linings can therefore heat up more quickly, and the friction of the piston assembly can be significantly reduced while the cylinder head is cooled more intensively in order to provide better knock resistance.
There is temp sensor near thermostat 2 (cylinder head).

1: 03F 121 111 A - Coolant thermostat housing with thermostat (~$216)
4: 03F 121 119 - Gasket (~$4)
5: N 910 717 01 - Hexagon socket flat head bolt (Remark: M6X25) (~$1)

There are 2 temp sensors:
1. G62 - near thermostat 2 (cylinder head)
2. F18 - thermal switch in radiator. Octavia II has G83 temp sensor, not 2 stage switch like here.

Engine cold

After cold-starting the engine, the active coolant pump is activated, thus stopping the coolant flow.

If no heating is requested, the engine heats up very quickly. If heating is requested, coolant circulation is stopped for approx. two minutes. Both thermostats are closed.

The coolant flows through the coolant pump, the cylinder block and the heater heat exchanger, and then back to the coolant pump. Parallel to this, the coolant flows through the oil cooler.

Engine warm, a cylinder head thermostat opens

If the coolant has reached a temperature of 80 °C, the cylinder head thermostat opens. The main radiator is now integrated in the coolant flow.

Engine warm, both thermostats open

When the coolant in the cylinder block reaches a temperature of 87 °C, the thermostat for this circuit opens with the result that the cylinder is now incorporated into the coolant circulation system.

Thermal management

The task of the thermal management system is to enable the engine to attain its operating temperature quickly since this improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions.
Thermal management is implemented by stopping the circulation of coolant during the warm-up phase:
- up to a coolant temperature of 90 °C at "salon heater off"
- up to 2 minutes at "salon heater on"
This is implemented technically by using an active coolant pump.

On top - Coolant circuit solenoid valve N492 - controls vacuum

1: 03F 121 004 E - Water pump with adhesive gasket (since 22.11.2011, was 03F 121 004 B) (~$208)
2: 03F 121 031 A - V-belt pulley (~$20)
41: 03F 121 713 - Control line (~$119)
42: 037 906 283 C - Solenoid valve
43: 046 905 291 B - Check valve (~$9)

Functions:
- coolant flow interrupted - coolant temperature of less than 30 °C, activated by vacuum.
- coolant is pumped - vacuum supply is shut off.

Special restarting characteristics:
- switches on and off for the duration of one second
- this cycle is repeated several times in succession
- the interval between cycles is approx. 7 seconds

Thus, the warm coolant from the engine mixes slowly with the cold coolant. When heating is requested, the pump is switched on immediately.

Vacuum activation.
The coolant pump is activated by the coolant circuit solenoid valve N492. It is operated by the engine control unit (this is computed by a map). The pump is activated by means of a PWM signal*.
However, the orifice plate is not actuated variably. It is only switched on or off.
If the valve is deenergised or fails, the coolant flow cannot be controlled since the orifice plate is kept retracted by the spring pressure (maximum coolant flow).
- Failure in off-state: the engine reaches its operating temperature more slowly.
- Failure in on-state: the coolant temperature increases to an unacceptably high level since the coolant pump is unable to feed in fresh coolant. The exhaust warning lamp K83 comes on.

Radiator fan

And this not less important device is not described in SSP docs.

16 - Radiator fan V7
24 - Thermo-switch for radiator fan F18

1: 6R0 959 455 C - Electric fan (Remark: 260/90W 390MM Siemens) (since 10.01.2011, prev was 6Q0 959 455 AD) (~$238)
4: 1J0 906 443 - Flat contact housing for single wiring (Remark: 3 pin, 000 979 228 E, 000 979 307 E)
10: 1J0 959 481 A - Dual thermal switch (Remark: 84-95C/91-102C 3 pin) (~$27)

Switching temperatures
Stage 1 - 84...95 °C
Stage 2 - 91...102 °C

UPDATE 2020-08-15

Below is thermal switch (position 10) compatible parts (price ordered high to low as of today).

Be aware that most of them has different work temperature ranges. Original is 84-95/91-102C, Hella has 87-97/97-102C. In my opinion, lower temp switch is better as it should keep slightly cooler engine but its not super critical.

Hella 6ZT 007 800-111

Hella - 6ZT 007 800-111 ~$28

Delphi - TS10292 ~$23

VAG - 1J0 959 481 A ~$22 (original)

Febi - 36563 ~$20

SWAG - 30 93 6563 ~$20

Vemo - V15-99-2006 ~$14

Metzger - 0915041 ~$14

Borsehung - B13129 ~$12

Facet - 7.5690 ~$12

Eps - 1.850.690 ~$12

Meyle - 100 959 0016 ~$10

Autlog - AS2014 ~$10

Vernet - TS2783 ~$10

Sat - ST-1J0 959 481 A

Fae - 38185

Jp Group - 1194000800

Topran - 109 772

Meat&Doria - 82701

Patron - PE20062

Era - 330230

Maxgear - 50-0176

Hans Pries - 109 772 755

Vika - 99590082401

Ossca - 02905

Elfull - ELS2030

Howyaa - 84081

END OF UPDATE

With out climatronic and climatic, fan get command from switch, proof

I have Climatronic, so there is radiator control unit J293 involved

And flow is different

Prev picture missing that 2,3 and 5 are positive leads, goes to fuse holder

The question is - how fan logic is working?
Radiator fan control unit (J293) connected to Climatronic control unit (J255) by 2 wires. The last connected to onboard supply control unit (J519) by CAN bus.

From Skoda SSP 25 - Climatronic I found 2 cases:
1. Air conditioning is off.
- first fan speed (90W) engaged at 84...95 °C (see stages of F18 above)
- second speed (260W) at 91...102 °C.
2. Air conditioning is on, pressure sensor G65 (old name F129) come in - pressure in refrigerant lines.
- pressure above 16 bar - second fan speed
- pressure above 2 bar and air condition was just turned on - first speed

Climatronic shuts off compressor completely when coolant temp come to 119°C and re-enable at 112°C again.

Changing coolant

For CBZB it's 7.7 ltr of G12++ or G13 with water mixture.
Also interesting that this engine has biggest capacity over others. Take for example CAVE that is way too super hot but has less coolant (and less 0.3l oil too!) - crazy, but good for us, CBZBers :-)

Draining and filling up coolant (PDF)

Coolant mixture

Many people suggest to use distilled water instead and this is true. Remember, DO NOT mix normal tap water with coolant. Tap water varies in pH, mineral, and chemical content and can adversely affect your new coolant and cooling system. City water may be treated with chlorine which is corrosive.

G12 consists of Ethylene Glycol and some additives. From this table you should see the following. Water is the main thermal transfer fluid in coolant system, when you mix water with Ethylene Glycol say for 50/50, conductivity drops almost a twice that mean mixture transfer less heat. So you need to find proper mixture. It's tricky because boiling point is also important. Refer for manufacturer instructions.
I would suggest in Israel (no freeze points) for CBZB use 40-20% of G12.


Sources
My old engine post with SSP materials - most images and text
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Power train - CBZB CBZA - 1.2 TSI (Edition 09.2012)
Skoda Fabia II - Workshop manual - Circuit diagram - Basic equipment, From March 2010 (Edition 03.2012)
ETKA (Skoda 2012-03)
ELSA Skoda (up to date)
Ethylene Glycol Heat-Transfer Fluid

Prices actual to post date and shown for original parts, there are cheaper replacements with same quality without VW logo on market too.

P.S. Not a April 1st joke :-)

41 700 km | 2Y 4M